We were just a small group of three beginners, which gave us plenty of chance to learn from our expert leaders. There are many 'styles' of hedge laying. Ours most closely resembled the Derbyshire style, as the hedgerow was planted in two rows giving quite a thick hedge. We just practised on one side, and the rest will be finished another day. Here is my summary of how to lay a hedge.
1. Prepare the area. The first tree that you lay is awkward, as it needs a gap to go into. You are basically taking a young tree that is around ten feet tall and upright, and leaning it over on the diagonal. To make sure it doesn't get caught up on othe trees, you need to prune off any branches coming off the side the tree will be leaning towards (as these would otherwise go into the ground). We were working from right to left, so the first tree was pruned on the right and leaned to the right. This then creates a gap for the tree on its left to lean into. You also need to prune off those branches coming out towards you: this will be the face of the hedge and it makes it easier and safer to work.
2. With a saw, make some horizontal cuts in the base of the tree. These are made at around two inch intervals, starting two inches off the ground. The first cut goes about three quarters of the way through the trunk ... but it is better to be cautious as you can always cut deeper if needed. On the other hand, if you cut through too far you have killed a fifteen year old tree and will end up with a gap in the hedge!! The next cut up goes about half way through the tree trunk, and the next one around a quarter of the way through.
3. Gradually thin out the bark. This is done using either an axe or a bill hook. Short steady movements are the key. You need a precise result - this is not the same as hacking down a tree with an axe as you need to ensure some living bark is maintained. It is best to keep the axe angled inwards, pointing at around 5 o'clock (7 o'clock if working the other way). Once the cut hits the horizontal saw marks, the excess wood chips away and it also stops the axe going down into the base.
4. Split the base. When there is about a quarter of the width remaining at the base of the tree, use the axe to gently split the tree vertically downwards, extending the cut face. It is important that this is a clean cut and the living tissue is maintained through the bark and into the roots. Someone may need to hold the tree to support it and ensure it doesn't bend and break.
5. Bend the tree over. This may need several people. One person should support the base of the tree. Once filed down, this material should be thin enough to bend. If it is too thick, it is more likely to crack and break. Other people are needed to support the tree and ease it down into position. Branches tangle on one another and other trees and need easing through. The tree should end up laying at an angle of around 40 degress. The first in the row may need supporting, but others should support each other.
6. The final stage is to add stakes at approximately two foot intervals. Sawn timber can be used, but we used coppiced branches from the nearby reserve to give a more natural effect. The pleaches (lain trees) are then woven between the stakes.
The end product can look a little harsh, but as seen from the photo at the top in a few months new growth will start to come through. As the hedge has been pruned, the new growth should be quite vigorous. This task is one that needs to be done in the winter months - besides the fact that it's easier to work with the trees when they are barren, this minimises impact on wildlife and especialy nesting birds.
I'm hoping to take part in another session later in the month so that I can get some more hedge laying practice. It was a very enjoyable day and a useful skill to learn.
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