Mapping the South Pennine Grasslands

Through my volunteering at West Yorkshire Ecology, I got the chance to get involved in a short project with them.  They have the task of mapping the Yorkshire side of the South Pennines National Character Area (36) to identify where grasslands are. 

A couple of other volunteers are also involved in the project, as there are several hundred square kilometers to map. On Friday we had a session together, which was really useful as it introduced us to the project and the MapInfo workspace we will be working with.  It was great to have a refresher on MapInfo as I have not used it since I left the Wildlife Trust, and also nice to meet some of the other volunteers as we usually work on different days.

The task is simple: for this first stage of the project, we are digitising part of the 1990 Phase 1 habitat survey that was done across the UK.  This original paper map is currently a flat image and can't be searched, manipulated or modelled.  For the project, we are combining two map 'layers' and creating a new one that can be used interactively.  The first layer is simply a picture of the Phase 1 survey results - on the screen shot below, this shows as the mainly orange-brown colours with notations. The second layer is a more recent, digital version showing the topography and field boundaries.  I have made these lines bright blue so they are easy to see.

The third layer - the one I am creating - is shown in white with the dotted pattern.  This started as a blank canvas, and I have to copy the shape of each field/area from the topography layer, and then annotate the notes - using the information from the underlying Phase 1 map - to show what habitat this shape represents.  You can see in the 'Info Tool' screen that I have created an area of Semi Improved Neutral Grassland, which has habitat code B2.2.

It is fairly easy to do, but the challenge comes when the areas on the topography map don't align to those on the Phase 1 map, or there are different habitat types annotated within one topographic boundary.  Then I get to test my MapInfo skills further by manipulating the shapes or creating new ones to make sure the representation is as accurate as possible.

At the moment, my new map layer is just showing as white where I have digitised the information. Once complete, a theme will be applied to the map. Using the Phase 1 habitat codes, it will automatically colour in the map so that it looks like the underlying picture. However, although it may look very similar once finished, the digitised version will be much more useful as it can be used to gather information about the coverage of each habitat type, and can be used to model different environmental project scenarios.

I'm pleased to be involved as it keeps my mapping skills up-to-date and contributes to a large and interesting project.

Hedge Laying

On Saturday I took part in a work day with the Yorkshire Wildlife Trust's Lower Aire Valley volunteers.  We returned to the site at Townclose Hills, but this time remained at the bottom of the hill to work on the boundary of the nature reserve.  A mixed hedgerow was planted around 15 years ago, and it is now old enough to 'lay' the hedge. This way of managing the hedgerow is good for wildlife as it makes it thicker and promotes new growth.  If livestock were in the field, it would be more secure.  The photo opposite shows a section of hedge that was done last year, with the nature reserve in the background.

We were just a small group of three beginners, which gave us plenty of chance to learn from our expert leaders.  There are many 'styles' of hedge laying.  Ours most closely resembled the Derbyshire style, as the hedgerow was planted in two rows giving quite a thick hedge.  We just practised on one side, and the rest will be finished another day.  Here is my summary of how to lay a hedge.



1.  Prepare the area.  The first tree that you lay is awkward, as it needs a gap to go into. You are basically taking a young tree that is around ten feet tall and upright, and leaning it over on the diagonal.  To make sure it doesn't get caught up on othe trees, you need to prune off any branches coming off the side the tree will be leaning towards (as these would otherwise go into the ground).  We were working from right to left, so the first tree was pruned on the right and leaned to the right. This then creates a gap for the tree on its left to lean into.  You also need to prune off those branches coming out towards you: this will be the face of the hedge and it makes it easier and safer to work.

2.  With a saw, make some horizontal cuts in the base of the tree. These are made at around two inch intervals, starting two inches off the ground. The first cut goes about three quarters of the way through the trunk ... but it is better to be cautious as you can always cut deeper if needed.  On the other hand, if you cut through too far you have killed a fifteen year old tree and will end up with a gap in the hedge!!  The next cut up goes about half way through the tree trunk, and the next one around a quarter of the way through.





3. Gradually thin out the bark.  This is done using either an axe or a bill hook.  Short steady movements are the key. You need a precise result - this is not the same as hacking down a tree with an axe as you need to ensure some living bark is maintained.  It is best to keep the axe angled inwards, pointing at around 5 o'clock (7 o'clock if working the other way).  Once the cut hits the horizontal saw marks, the excess wood chips away and it also stops the axe going down into the base.

4.  Split the base.  When there is about a quarter of the width remaining at the base of the tree, use the axe to gently split the tree vertically downwards, extending the cut face. It is important that this is a clean cut and the living tissue is maintained through the bark and into the roots.  Someone may need to hold the tree to support it and ensure it doesn't bend and break.

5. Bend the tree over. This may need several people.  One person should support the base of the tree. Once filed down, this material should be thin enough to bend. If it is too thick, it is more likely to crack and break.  Other people are needed to support the tree and ease it down into position. Branches tangle on one another and other trees and need easing through.  The tree should end up laying at an angle of around 40 degress. The first in the row may need supporting, but others should support each other.  

 

6. The final stage is to add stakes at approximately two foot intervals. Sawn timber can be used, but we used coppiced branches from the nearby reserve to give a more natural effect.  The pleaches (lain trees) are then woven between the stakes.

The end product can look a little harsh, but as seen from the photo at the top in a few months new growth will start to come through. As the hedge has been pruned, the new growth should be quite vigorous. This task is one that needs to be done in the winter months - besides the fact that it's easier to work with the trees when they are barren, this minimises impact on wildlife and especialy nesting birds.

 

I'm hoping to take part in another session later in the month so that I can get some more hedge laying practice. It was a very enjoyable day and a useful skill to learn.

New Year Planning

After the holiday break, I have had a busy few days organising myself and my studies.  I now have a weekly study planner for the next 6 months or so, which looks pretty scary as I have a lot to keep myself busy.  As ever, my studies are busiest in May-June which is exactly the time when I should be getting out and doing field work - hopefully I will be able to combine both.  I have yet to start my next Open University module, which will be my third year project, but I am hoping to do something great-crested newt related.  This can serve the dual purpose of being a university project and working towards my great-crested newt licence.  I have already started with some research, and have used my Christmas gift money to buy some books and supplies. 

I am attending the ARC UK Herptofauna Workers Meeting in Newcastle in early February, and have also booked onto a Field Studies Council course in April, so should be well set up to start newt surveying in the Spring.

One of my New Year's Resolutions is to continue to improve my plant identification skills.  The first of my MMU modules this year, at the end of May, is on Woodland Plants.  I attended several events in 2014 on woodland plants, so already have quite a good idea about the sorts of plants we will be looking at.  Today I have made a revision list so that each week leading up to the course I will be reviewing a small group of related plants. Hopefully this will prepare me for the course a little better.  I will be doing a lot of newt field work and revising for my OU exam at the same time, so this may take a bit of pressure off.  This week I will be looking at the Violet and Primrose families.

I received some good news today: as I have successfully completed two years of continuing professional development, my membership with the Society of Biology has been upgraded and I am now Kate Wright, AMSB! Another small step in the right direction.